One of the most critical operations in this sector is the cutting process. Cutting is the process of separating a spread of fabric into garment components as per the pattern shapes. It directly impacts fabric utilization, product quality, and overall production efficiency. This stage acts as a bridge between fabric preparation and garment assembly.
Importance of Cutting in Garment Manufacturing
Cutting is essential because it translates the design and patterns into actual garment components. Any error in this stage can lead to defective products, fabric wastage, and increased production costs. Accurate cutting ensures that each piece conforms to the pattern design, aligns with the grain lines, and maintains consistent sizing.
Objectives of Cutting
- Precision – To cut fabric parts exactly as per the pattern to ensure garment fit and design consistency.
- Minimize Waste – To optimize fabric usage by reducing wastage.
- High Efficiency – To cut multiple layers quickly and accurately.
- Consistency – To ensure every piece of the same size and design is cut uniformly.
Stages of the Cutting Process
Cutting in garment manufacturing typically involves several stages:
1. Pattern Making
The process begins with creating patterns based on the garment design. A pattern is a template made from paper, cardboard, or digital file that outlines the shape and dimensions of each garment component. These patterns are graded into different sizes during the pattern grading process.
2. Marker Making
Marker making involves arranging all the pattern pieces of a garment (or a set of garments) on the fabric in a way that minimizes wastage. A marker is a layout plan that serves as a guide for cutting. Marker making can be done manually or using Computer-Aided Design (CAD) systems. CAD systems help optimize space utilization and improve accuracy.
3. Fabric Spreading
Before cutting, multiple layers of fabric are laid one over another to prepare a fabric spread. This step ensures that many garment pieces can be cut simultaneously, increasing productivity. Factors considered during spreading include fabric type, ply direction, number of layers, and fabric flaws.
4. Cutting
This is the core step where the fabric spread is cut as per the marker layout. The cutting must be clean, precise, and consistent through all fabric layers. It may involve cutting straight lines, curves, or detailed shapes depending on the garment style.
5. Numbering and Bundling
After cutting, each fabric piece is numbered or labeled for size and design identification, then bundled by garment units. This avoids mixing sizes or parts during sewing and ensures accurate assembly.
Types of Cutting Methods
Here are the major cutting methods used in the garment industry:
1. Manual Cutting
Manual cutting is done using tools like scissors or straight knives. It is typically used for prototypes, small batches, or in cottage industries.
- Advantages:
- Low cost of equipment
- Suitable for small productions
- Disadvantages:
- Labor-intensive and time-consuming
- Limited accuracy and productivity
2. Mechanical Cutting
Used in medium to large-scale production, mechanical cutting tools are faster and more accurate than manual methods.
a) Straight Knife Cutting
One of the most common cutting tools. A vertical blade moves up and down while the cutter pushes it through the fabric.
- Ideal for straight and slightly curved lines
- Can cut up to several inches of layered fabric
- Requires skilled handling to maintain accuracy
b) Round Knife Cutting
Uses a circular blade, suitable for cutting curved edges and small layers of fabric.
- Offers better maneuverability for intricate shapes
- Less efficient for large spreads
c) Band Knife Cutting
A continuous looped blade runs on pulleys, and fabric is moved through the blade. It is often used in cutting operations requiring high precision.
- Highly accurate
- Ideal for intricate patterns and small parts
d) Die Cutting
Die cutting is a method used in garment manufacturing to cut fabric into specific shapes using a pre-formed metal die, much like a cookie cutter. The die is pressed onto the fabric stack using a die cutting press, resulting in precise and uniform fabric pieces. This method is ideal for cutting multiple identical components with high accuracy and speed.
- Best for small, repetitive pieces (e.g., pockets, collars)
- Offers excellent consistency
3. Computerized / Automatic Cutting
Automated cutting machines use software-controlled blades, lasers, or water jets. These machines work from digital markers and can cut large quantities quickly.
a) CNC Cutting (Computer Numerical Control)
- High speed and accuracy
- Reduced material wastage
- Often used in large-scale production
b) Laser Cutting
Uses a high-powered laser beam to cut through fabric.
- No blade contact; perfect for intricate designs
- Reduces fraying in synthetic fabrics
- Suitable for both mass and customized production
c) Water Jet Cutting
Uses high-pressure water mixed with abrasives to cut through fabrics.
- Suitable for thick or layered materials
- Requires water-resistant materials or protective coatings
Factors Affecting Cutting Quality
Several factors influence the quality of the cutting process:
- Blade Sharpness: Dull blades can cause fraying and inaccuracy.
- Fabric Type: Stretchy or slippery fabrics need special handling.
- Spreading Tension: Over-stretched fabrics may shrink post-cutting.
- Marker Efficiency: Poor marker planning increases fabric wastage.
- Operator Skill: Manual or semi-manual operations require experienced hands.
Common Defects in Cutting
- Ragged or Burned Edges – due to dull blades or excessive heat
- Mismatch in Pattern Pieces – due to inaccurate marker or careless cutting
- Notches Cut Incorrectly – notches are used to align pieces during sewing
- Fabric Distortion – caused by poor spreading or wrong handling techniques
Advancements in Cutting Technology
The garment industry is increasingly adopting smart manufacturing methods. Automated cutting systems with Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Machine Learning (ML) capabilities now enable:
- Real-time fabric flaw detection
- Optimal marker generation
- Robotic arm-assisted cutting
- Integration with inventory and production management systems
These innovations enhance precision, reduce labor dependency, and cut operational costs.
Conclusion
The cutting process in the garment industry is more than just slicing fabric—it is a sophisticated, strategic operation that directly impacts quality, efficiency, and profitability. As technology continues to evolve, cutting processes are becoming faster, more precise, and more sustainable. Whether done manually for bespoke garments or using automated systems for mass production, mastering the cutting process is essential for any successful apparel manufacturer.